I have been a red wine drinker for years, and I even know a little about it – enough to know that I like some weird varietals and to be one of those tiresome people who says things like “I remember when merlot tasted like something other than a burned tree.”
But I always thought that I didn’t like white wine: for me, chardonnay has Merlot Syndrome (they all taste the same, and they all taste of too much wood, which I think is just lazy winemaking) and the other common whites are too sweet for me to want them often. I’ve had some delicious Rieslings, but again: have to be in the mood.
But summer in Houston is so hot that I haven’t wanted red wine, plus I’ve noticed in the past year or so that I sleep less well when I’ve had red wine.
Then we went to Moody Gardens for our anniversary in the spring (a rainy, cuddlesome weekend). It was too wet outside for going out to dinner, so we went to the fancy restaurant in the hotel. I decided on a meal consisting of All the Crab in the World (Dingo had All the Shrimp in the World), so I wanted a white wine. I figured that because I like so many less common red wines (tempranillo, carignan), maybe the same would be true of whites.
I ordered a Martin Codax albariño, and the sommelier perked right up: “It’s one of the great unknowns!” he said. I mentioned that I dislike whites that are too oaky or too sweet, and he said it would be perfect.
It was. That review linked above sums up how I feel about this wine, except that the strong minerality he disliked at warmer temperatures is one of the things I find most delicious about it. The wine is not sticky, like some sweet whites, and it goes well with just about anything – including a bad day, which I’ve had a number of this year.
I have had a very good time trying new and interesting whites. I’ve discovered vinho verde, a Portuguese white with very low alcohol and just a touch of effervescence, that is the epitome of a summer wine.
Another albariño, Condes de Albarei, was also quite good: more golden and thicker than the Martin Codax, with a touch more acidity and less mineral. I liked it somewhat less than the Codax, but it was still delicious.
Oroya Sushi Wine even made Dingo sit up and say “yum!” I haven’t found it locally yet, but you will be unsurprised to know that it goes great with sushi. Very light and crisp, fruity without being sweet. I can’t wait to get some.
Another jumbled-up white is Seven Daughters white (link has music), which I also discovered while eating sushi. It’s a little sweeter than the others, but not syrupy, and it’s very easy to find – I got a bottle at Target.
Last night I tried a Greek wine that was just delicious – a thing I did not know was possible! – Greek Wine Cellars’ assyrtiko. Lots of acid in this one, and maybe a hint of the sea, but refreshing.
Coming up I have yet another albariño to try, a new variety of vinho verde, a muscadet, and a blanc pescador. Will report back.
What do you like to drink during summer?
I largely agree re new world chardonnays, although there are some good unoaked or lightly-oaked ones around, esp. from S Africa, New Zealand. Macon Villages is generally in this style, and often good value (the Louis Jadot one is good: better than Georges DuBoeuf, for sure). French Chardonnay blends, such as you find in actual Chablis, can be really good (although it’s worth going for a better Chablis: this is one case where you pay up front for the name).
I like the Codax Albarino, too, better than most Spanish whites I’ve tried, although Vina Esmeralda‘s worth a look.
Are your preferred Rieslings dry? I never cared for the German ones I’d tasted, but the Alsace can be delicious – eg. Trimbach: fruity nose, dry palate. Have you tried Mulderbosch? Also fruity-but-fairly-dry, it’s made me go a check out a bunch of S. African Chenin Blancs, which I’d previously rather written off.
For summer drinking I like Italian whites: Gavi di Gavi‘s a change of pace from the usual Veneto Pinot Grigios. I’m mostly drinking Sauvignons now, though, Sancerre being bone-dry, Pouilly Fume really wonderful and good for a celebration (and too expensive for everyday drinking, sadly), Graves in a similar category.
For obscure varietal snobbery, I like Terret, but now I can’t find any in the US :(. Here are two tantalizing links. The stuff I tried was well worth following up, but I fear for now it’s destined for your mental backwater.
alas, linkage all gone. Here it is in awkward inline text:
Vina Esmeralda = http://www.lovethatwine.co.uk/wine/Torres-Vina-Esmeralda_3112.html
Trimbach = http://www.wineanorak.com/blog/2009/07/must-drink-more-alsace-trimbach.html
Mulderbosch = http://www.wine.com/V6/Mulderbosch-Chenin-Blanc-2007/wine/93518/detail.aspx
Gavi = http://www.italianmade.com/wines/DOC10012.cfm
Terret 1 = tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com/2009/07/organic-wine-fair-at-bedarieux.html
Terret 2 = http://www.closdugravillas.com
I just tried a Burgans albarino, and it was also VERY yummy.
I’ve had some Alsatian Rieslings that I liked very much. In general, I’m in favor of Alsatian Things, that being where Grumpi Mohlere was born. I would say … not necessarily dry. What I object to in a white is syrupiness. Somewhat sweet I don’t mind (I find some pino grigios pleasant), but I don’t like sticky.
Haven’t made it around to Italian whites yet, so thank you for the recommendations.
I’m not quite sure what you mean by “syrupy:” I’ve come across some really awful NY wines that I think might qualify, but I always figured that was just bad work.
What about Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, though? Wildly honeyed, sweet and clean dessert wine; serve very cold. It’s a revelation.
…also, now I see that the links were there, I just couldn’t tell on my monitor, because the colours looked the same.
Some very sweet wines have a thicker texture to me: that’s what I mean.